It was just before sunrise at Datu Wellness, an Ayurvedic retreat near Siena, Italy. I stood with 19 other guests waiting for the morning ritual, all of us dressed identically in a white Kurta tunic with pajama bottoms, our uniform for the week. I was the only one from America; the others were from France, Spain, England, and Norway, but we were all here for the same reason: to destress and detox by doing Ayurvedic practices over the next week.

Most Ayurvedic practitioners live in India, but as Asia is so far away, owner Constantin Bjerke brought Indian Ayurvedic specialists to this stunning Italian spot with its undulating green hills dotted with Cypress trees standing like Sentinels. Even the outdoor pool faced endless acres of gorgeous scenery as did my sun-filled spacious room overlooking the verdant countryside. My room was rustic and comfortable, originally part of a medieval hamlet now transformed into a hotel. There was a couch, two armchairs, and an armoire with a second uniform and bathrobe. All you needed to bring from home was your toothbrush and swimsuit. The amenities included an analogue watch because Datu preferred us to not use electronics. (We had WIFI and could use our cell phone in our room.). A small wooden pin for our use read I AM IN SILENCE, though none of us ever wore it. A copper tongue scraper (ours to keep) was to eliminate bad breath, improve digestion, and activate taste buds.

Each night after the sleep ritual in which we’d lie on yoga mats covered with fluffy quilts and listen to singing bowls and other sounds, I’d return to my room, brush my teeth, use my tongue scraper, and get into bed where a hot water bottle was tucked beneath the covers. There was always a thermos of hot almond milk with cardamom and chamomile, and a notecard with a quote such as “To attain knowledge, add things every day. To attain wisdom, remove things every day.” (Lao Tzu). 

I’d wake up at first light and walk a few steps up the cobblestone path to meet for the daily traditional Hindu sunrise ceremony. An Ayurvedic doctor, Dr. Ramadas, burned ghee (clarified butter) and recited a mantra to dispel negative energy. His mellifluous voice rose to the sky as he chanted in Sanskrit, praying to the sun and the divine light to inspire our thoughts. He led these traditional chants before each meal and also at sunset, where I was constantly mesmerized by the bright orange globe sinking beyond the hills.

Morning Sadhana (Yoga, Pranayama breathing and meditation) followed. I hate sitting cross-legged with my spine erect, but you could do the entire class lying down, and I did until I found sitting was actually very comfortable. Breakfast was a healthy chocolate vitality drink, stewed apples and raisins (for gut health), and rice or oat porridge or pancakes — absolutely delicious, as was lunch (the biggest meal) and dinner (always a tasty hot soup). At each place setting was a quote, such as, “The less people know, the more stubbornly they know it.” (Osho). 

Breathing chanting and candle-lit meditation classes took place throughout the day as well as outdoor art therapy (painting, beading, and Indian block printing). Nothing was compulsory, and often I’d just sit at the pool and stare out at the countryside. Each stay included five treatments, a choice of 11 different Ayurvedic massages and 14 other treatments. I chose Traditional Chinese Medicine (acupuncture, moxibustion and cupping), so helpful in relieving pain from my sore knee and shoulder that I chose it twice more. Myotherapy greatly relieved my sore joints, and I fell into a deep slumber during my deep tissue Tibetan oil massage, 

The Ayurvedic medicine not only made me feel better both physically and mentally, but even more importantly, I also learned how to completely slow down, and reconnect with my inner self.