The Dunlin blends Charleston charm, inventive Lowcountry flavors, and easy riverfront living into one exquisite retreat.
When Charleston’s newest luxury resort, The Dunlin, an Auberge Collection property, opened this past summer, I was eager to take a look. Set on the tidal Kiawah River, which wends its way along the backside of Kiawah Island before reaching the Atlantic Ocean, the resort doesn’t offer access to a beach, but I don’t think anyone minds: this kind of water calms the soul as it ebbs and flows slowly and silently. It’s easy to get out on it—there are canoes and kayaks to borrow as well as excursions aboard a super-quiet motorboat—but you can also take it in from the plethora of porches that wrap every building in breezy Southern hospitality.
As in most Southern homes, food is big a component of that hospitality. The Dunlin has figured that out, in a delicious way.
Our cheerful room had been set with pickled green beans, traditional pimento cheese (shredded cheddar, mayo, a few seasonings, tanged up with vinegary pimentos) and, of course, crisp saltines. The satisfying snack was accompanied by a flask of silky sweet iced tea and consumed on our back porch.
Cooking quality Southern food in a restaurant setting is a challenge. Too traditional and your dishes will be compared to those of someone’s mama. Too creative and you risk losing what made it special in the first place. That all comes into play at Linnette’s the resort’s main restaurant, which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner all week long.
Bringing more than ten years of experience in the kitchens of several Thomas Keller restaurants, executive chef Michael DeCicco clearly respects Lowcountry ingredients—he purveys from dozens of local producers–and cooking techniques. But I wasn’t expecting his uncanny ability to update beloved dishes without disrupting them. Garlicky crab rice is softened by deep notes of browned butter; instead of lemon, yuzu gives the hollandaise its zesty punch. Ginger adds warmth and depth to short ribs; lardons bring just the right layer of caramelization to long-braised greens.
Of course, not every menu item has Southern roots. There are also Continental dishes such as foie gras with a complex banyuls and cassis gelee; Wagyu beef tartar and Hamachi crudo. Vegetables—citrus-scented beets and farrow; mushroom toast with black truffle ricotta and humble carrots elevated with creamy labneh and savory pepita granola—work as sides or mains.
Equal care went into breakfast and lunch menus, where you can lean into traditional favorites (local eggs; shrimp and grits; pancakes; fried chicken; burgers) or steer into avo toast; chia pudding and green juice.
The Dunlin’s secret weapon is the Willet Room, which bills itself as a lounge but is actually a welcoming gathering spot where you can get a snack or a meal just about any time of day. The variety is terrific: beyond big salads and burgers, there are oysters to slurp, chips and veggies to plunk into dip and, in the evening, caviar service. Everyone comes, from neighbors in t-shirts and shorts, who gather on the porch with dogs and beers to dressed-to-the-nines resort guests sipping pre-dinner cocktails in the comfy banquets.
Although there are only 72 rooms at the Dunlin, the assortment of fun activities would rival those available a larger resort. Bikes are free for the taking; I zoomed around on afternoon, exploring the marsh, zig-zagging through neighborhoods and making my way to the farm, where you can purchase fresh eggs or just visit with the animals. There are two pools, tennis and pickleball courts and a gym that offers complimentary yoga and pilates classes each week.
Individuals from all over Charleston come to the Dunlin’s pretty spa, which offers not just top-notch massages and facials but results-driven treatments from Biologique Recherche as well.
It would be easy to get so caught up in all the fun at the Dunlin that you miss a meal. Don’t make that mistake. From almond croissants at breakfast to grilled local fish, caviar and everything in between, the Dunlin is a delectable culinary getaway.
Photos courtesy of The Dunlin, Auberge Collection
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